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Anamorphic Day-to-Day


December 26, 2018

Hi, my name is Tito Ferradans, and today I’m here to say I’m done.

I don’t mean to sound rude, but I am really done. I thank all of you who engaged with me in this journey of teaching and learning, it’s been a blast, but it’s time for me to move on.

If you don’t want to bother with the rest of this post but still want to ask me questions: fill the form and make a donation. I still have answers, but they aren’t for free. I already put enough knowledge out there for free.

I’ve been talking about anamorphics for a while. The channel is almost four years old, the Portuguese version of Anamorphic on a Budget is six years old and the English translation is five. When I started this there were no SLR Magic anamorphics, there were no single focus solutions, there was only the EOSHD forum and a lot of hunting for information. When I became an admin of the Anamorphic Shooters facebook group it had little over a thousand members.

Look at where we are now. Atlas lenses are out there for a fraction of the price of other cine anamorphics, most adapters tripled or even quadrupled in price on eBay, anything can be turned single focus, the facebook group has more than ten thousand people in it and my channel is about to reach ten thousand subscribers. I get dozens of messages asking about lenses every month and I reply to all of them. Lately I’ve been encouraging people to make financial contributions, but I never held back information in exchange for payment.

I’m a strong believer that education is key for building a better world and sharing knowledge definitely fits in that category. On the other hand – I mentioned this before – making a living out of this has always been a hell of a challenge. For the previous three years, I wasn’t allowed to work in Canada – permits and such – so I took this project as my way to make ends meet.

The situation changed in October of 2017 when I finally became a Permanent Resident. This allowed me to work full time without worrying about being kicked out of the country. I didn’t go to film school three times to work on anything other than film, so that’s what I did. That’s what I’ve been doing. One could say I’m familiar with a camera.

If you’re into film, this is no surprise: film eats away all of your time. You’re either coming up with your own projects or toiling away, 12+ hours a day, on someone else’s film. I think I mentioned this before, shooting tests for the channel got me feeling stuck in a loop. It was like I was filming the same thing over and over again. It got to a point where I know what to expect from a scope by just looking at it. There was no surprise, no excitement. No more “wow”.

On that feeling I managed to add a few more mods to the facebook group and organize the wrapping process for the channel, Patreon and so on. You’ll be seeing a lot less of me in the near future. I’m quitting facebook altogether and switching gears on my career plans. I’m gonna put to use everything I learned making these videos and focus on shooting anamorphic projects – but not so much on teaching all there is to know about these lenses.

There’s also a “tiredness” factor. It’s four years of answering the same questions. “How wide can you go?”, “Which lens should I buy?”, “What lens works with my setup?”, “What is a good price for this lens?”. And I answered them all. All the times they came up. For free. But not anymore. If you’re a part of the Anamorphic Shooters group, you might’ve noticed my answers have been a bit harsher. I’m tired of all the gear-obsessing, camera-buying, pixel-peeping and hand-holding-while-I-break-it-to-you.

I don’t think I’m in a place of contributing to the community as positively as I used to. I want to talk about complicated things that beginners won’t understand – and not always have the ultimate answer. I want friends from whom I can learn new tricks. Not one-message strangers but friends I talk about things other than gear. I’m tired of feeling like the dad of the anamorphic community.

I’m Tito Ferradans and I won’t be back next week. See you around, and thanks for hanging out. It was a blast. Let’s make something awesome. I’ll still be writing and making occasional videos (there’s a few left pending I’d love to finish), so I’m not 100% gone, but simply saying “I want to shoot anamorphic on a budget” doesn’t summon me anymore. Thank you.


Rectilux HCDNA Disassembly

November 7, 2018

It’s time to tear a Rectilux HCDNA apart for a mod project. It’s a useful tutorial for regreasing and general servicing.


All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

Tito Ferradans here for an oddly technical video on how to take things apart: let’s rip open a Rectilux HCDNA. The wisdom for this process was originally imparted on me by Ian Edward Weir – you should definitely check out his content – and you can find a link to his website as well as the written version of this tutorial in the description below.

Why am I taking a HCDNA apart? My fellow Vancouverite Victor Prokopowicz was having some trouble getting the HCDNA close to the front of his Kowa 1.75x. He wanted to mill the back of the HCDNA a bit wider, but wasn’t insane to try to do it with the glass still on. He was also not comfortable taking it apart by himself, so we made a deal I could make some episodes with his gear if I helped him out. Here I am.

Taking your HCDNA apart is also good to fix stuck-focus issues, regreasing, taking off excessive grease and cleaning in between the glass too. This was a much more challenging process than I expected, but everything and everyone made out alright. And you’ll be able to see the video about that Kowa soon, so hit subscribe now and be done with it.

Let’s go.

As an easy warm up step, let’s get all the clamping screws out. This will set up the mood for everything to come, and it’s an easy enough step that no one can mess up.

Now, with gloves and lens wrench, I’ll remove the locking ring for the rear glass. After that, carefully drop it onto your hands and place it in a safe area. Move to the front and remove the locking ring. These steps make me extra nervous because I can’t have the lens wrench slip and hit the glass. After removing the ring, turn the lens so the glass goes safely on your hand. Put it aside too.

Now, remove the three small screws around the focus ring and now it kind of spins freely, so I went to minimum focus and then pulled off the focus ring. Naked helicoid now. Lots of grease.

The next step is to take out the screws that lock the cam sheaves. There’s three of them. Move on to the drag ring that sits at the bottom of the main body. After that is removed, only the sheaves hold the focus mechanism to the main body of the Rectilux.

This is me just being stupid and trying to take out the sheaves from the wrong side. They’re held by pressure and you just need to push them from inside so they pop out. I tried to wedge them out and wasted a ton of time in that process. As soon as they get a little loose, the ring with the RECTILUX engravings comes out.

After that I realized my mistake and just used tweezers to push them out from inside and then pull the rest from outside. Tiny things for big fingers. That releases the helicoid, and you can say you’re done with the first part of the process.

We’re gonna mill out the area with the 75mm male threads.

And this is what we got. A few milimeters wider and good enough for the Kowa. So let’s begin reassembling.

We got the grease John Barlow recommended, Mobil-28, which is an aircraft grease. I used q-tips to spread it good amounts of it as evenly as I could over the helicoid. Also, I’m doing this without gloves and it really sucked. The best way to clean out the grease is lighter fluid and that messes up your skin. Don’t be like me.

After you have a good layer on the helicoid and the base piece, slide the helicoid in place and lock it using the big ring that goes on the base – add some grease to the bottom of this ring too. From my understanding, this ring controls the drag of the lens, if you want focus to be stiffer, tighten here more. If you want it to be more loose, don’t push this too far, but always keep it below the lip of the main body.

Check for grease spill and clean it. We are stuffing this baby with grease and there’s red stuff going everywhere.

Rotate the helicoid so the bottom of the cam curve aligns with the slots in the main body. Now slide in the piece with the Rectilux name (the name should be aligned with the white marking in the main body) and align the holes in it with the guides inside the main body as well. The cam sheaves have to go through all these pieces to lock everything in place. Once you put everything in place, push in the little pins, one at a time.

Make sure everything is flush and then put back the screws inside the cam sheaves. Do not overtighten, go just enough so they don’t protrute from the surface of the helicoid.

Slab some more grease on the outside of the helicoid and then slide over the focus ring. Align with infinity and insert the three tiny screws. Make sure they don’t go too deep, just enough to lock into place. John recommends using threadlock on these little guys and the drag ring inside. I did not do that. I’m traumatized from stripping screws.

Anyway, after you fit the focus ring and lock it, give it a whirl to make sure everything moves accordingly. Go to the minimum focus mark and let’s put back the rear glass.

Of course I got some grease onto the glass, so I had to do some passes of lighter fluid to get it clean. Dust off, and done with this. Move to the front glass and repeat the process. It would be really smart if I just switched gloves, but I ran out of gloves in the middle of the process, so I resorted to cleaning the glass repeatedly to get rid of the grease.

Once the glass is locked in place, do some repeated full focus turns to spread out the grease better. Some of it is gonna come out on the ring with Rectilux written on it, so you might wanna clean that off.

As I said, I got grase everywhere, so I spent a good amount of extra time wiping this entire thing with lighter fluid and making it clean. Our last step is the reverse of our first, putting back in place the clamp screws.

That concludes the process of putting it back together, now with a wider back that can fit bigger lenses. If you’re following these steps, please be super careful with everything, wear gloves, use proper tools, and I highly recommend filming everything so you can easily backtrack what goes where.

Like the video if you enjoy hardcore lensporn and if you have any comments, please leave them below! I urge you to subscribe before you go, as I’m always trying to grow this channel and make sure beginners have a reliable place to look for knowledge. Thank you for watching, and I’ll see you soon. Tito Ferradans out.


SATEC Dyaliscope Champion

October 28, 2018

Following up on French scopes, this one was sent in by Justin Bacle and it’s a tricky one!


All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

Hey guys and girls, how’s it going? Tito Ferradans here for a review of yet another French lens! This one sent in by the French Justin Bacle! It’s a long projection lens, so you know what to expect. Let’s go.

This was a challenging shoot. The setup was pretty heavy, regardless of how light the Sony is, because the Dyaliscope is heavy. Focus was also stiff, so I did some modding to a Rectilux HCDNA in order to get single focus. When I had this setup mounted onto the 135mm taking lens, a passerby could claim I was shooting closeups through a telescope – and not in a good way. Overall the image looks “diffuse” to me and the highlights really bloom even when stopped down. It’s not a bad bloom entirely, but it’s a boom nonetheless. Bokeh gets quite smeary when wide open, giving a dreamy look that could be useful depending on the project.

The Dyaliscope Champion is a 2x stretch, double focus, large and heavy projection lens. Not the largest nor heaviest of the French batch, but still bad. The lens weighs 620g and – at least – features 60mm threads on the back, which allow you to use step rings or a clamp to mount it and align. At this load, I’d recommend using rails when shooting with this setup.

The front is large, so large that your only option for clamps is making your own, through 3d printing. It’s in fact so large that a regular HCDNA won’t fit over it. The one I used for these tests was provided by Victor Prokopowitz, as we worked on getting it to fit a Kowa 1.75x. More on that in upcoming videos. So, unless you’re willing to mill out pieces of your HCDNA, your only option is diopters.

The price range for these on eBay is wild. I’ve seen them for a low as $150 all the way up to $400. If it’s a full, ready to shoot, rig, that’s not too bad of a price. But just this lens for $400 is far fetched.

The Dyaliscope shows consistent performance through the entire range of lenses I tested. It displays similar results on similar apertures regardless of focal length. That’s a positive thing. And the edges aren’t as bad as most scopes.

The flares are one of the highlights (heh, did you get it? flare, highlights?) anyway, one of the highlights of this lens, with shiny yellow colors and a good variety with elements. It reminds me of the Aivascope.

Vignetting on this one is worse than the Hypergonar I showed last week. This one shows intense dark edges at 50mm on S35 crop, which is concerning, and only clears at 85mm, which means the threshold for getting 2.4:1 clear on full frame with this lens is above 100mm. The frame is clear of any vignetting at 135mm on S35, which is just over 200mm on full frame.

Just like last week, this lens fuels my disliking for projection lenses. They’re a necessary evil in a market that gives us very few new offerings. This forces new shooters to hash through lots of repurposed things, many of them far from ideal. Some work out, others don’t. If you really have to make this lens work, you can, but it’s not something I’d recommend. The rig becomes impractical and the results are just ok.

Phew, I’ve been really going at it for projection lenses these days, huh? I shot most of these test videos in a row, so after struggling so much with projection lenses and heavy rigs, I was pretty upset at shooting anamorphic. Honestly, it’s not worth it if you hate the process. On that note, next week things are better, so subscribe to hear more about the Moller 32/2x and make sure to hit the like button before you go. If you have any questions or disagree with my harsh remarks about projection lenses, please leave a comment below and we shall talk about it. Tito Ferradans out.


Why is no one talking about the Letus Anamorph-X?

October 24, 2018

I’ve been into shooting anamorphic on a budget for almost ten years now.


When I say “on a budget”, the number goes between $0 and $4000, which is very little when compared to Arri, Cooke, Hawk or Panavision anamorphic lenses.

Why should you care? Production value. Anamorphic adapters are special lenses that go in front of your regular camera lens. They squeeze more field of view onto the camera’s sensor, allowing you to create wider-than-usual shots. As this extra field of view is squeezed onto the sensor, it requires stretching in post. Without dwelling into all the math, shooting 16:9 video with a 1.33x anamorphic adapter results in the much desired Cinemascope aspect ratio, 2.36:1, that fancy Hollywood thing you do by adding black bars on the top and bottom of your shots. Except no more black bars.


I have tinkered with all you can think of when it comes to adapters and DIY solutions. You can check many of my experiments and reviews on my YouTube to attest that I’m not saying nonsense. It’s not often an adapter surprises me while testing. I was even more surprise because there’s so little praise (or information at all) out there for the Letus Anamorph-X 1.33x PRO.

Letus Anamorph-X 1.33x PRO mounted to a Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 CINE and Sony A7s II

Letus is an American company which started out making SLR lens adapters for DV cameras and nowadays makes niche high-end gear, such as the Helix gimbals and various adapters. The subject today is their 1.33x PRO anamorphic adapter, which follows the original Anamorph-X 1.33x, released in late 2013 and discontinued shortly after. The first Anamorph-X was a good sketch of an adapter but it had many quirks: a massive size, uneven stretch across the frame and not so impressive resolving power.

Letus Anamorph-X 1.33x, first version

Speaking to a representative from Letus, they said that the glass in the first version was almost a copy from another famous 1.33x adapter: the Panasonic LA7200, which was out of production since the late 2000’s, but still loved by many DIY anamorphic enthusiasts. After the initial release of the Letus Anamorph-X, their optical designer came up and said “I can do better!”, pushing higher quality glass and redesigned lens elements, leading to improved image quality and addressing the issue of anamorphic mumps (the cause of stretched out faces in the center of the frame especially at close focus, which you can clearly see in my tests).

The Anamorph-X 1.33x PRO

For their second, or PRO, version Letus redesigned the entire lens, improving its size, mechanics and, most importantly, the optics. I had the chance to play with both the first and the second versions of the Anamorph-X and the difference between them is like night and day especially when it comes to size, corner resolution and how wide you can go.

Review of the Letus Anamorph-X 1.33x PRO

One thing many anamorphic shooters struggle to achieve is truly wide shots. Many adapters already show vignetting at 50mm on full frame sensors, with very few being usable at 35mm. The Panasonic LA7200 – Letus’ starting point for the Anamorph-X – was able to clear 28mm, which turned to 21mm horizontal field of view (hFOV). Pretty wide, right? As soon as I unpacked the Letus and noticed the gigantic front and rear elements, I wanted to put them to the test. That’s how I learned that with the right base lens you can go as wide as 21mm (15mm hFOV) on full frame. If you want to learn more about these calculations, check out this hFOV calculator I made.

When pushing this far into wide-angles and combining them with anamorphics you start to notice bent lines and a special type of distortion that people go through great lengths to simulate. Once I realized the footage was looking much more expensive than the gear I had actually used to shoot, I decided to go beyond testing just the lenses and test also the audience. That’s how SCOPE was born.

This is SCOPE

For SCOPE I matched the Anamorph-X with a modified Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 CINE. The mod consisted of inserting an oval cutout at the aperture mechanism, in order to make my anamorphic bokeh more pronounced. Most 1.33x adapters struggle in that sense, so I was giving it some incentive. Then I added the Blackmagic Video Assist 4K for external recording at higher bitrates and shot some footage emphasizing bokeh and distortion.

THIS IS SCOPE – I’ve always dreamed of making my own anamorphic lens.

In post I used VideoCopilot’s Optical Flares plugin for After Effects and created my own unique anamorphic flare to fit the fictional lens. Then I carefully applied it to the shots I wanted to highlight how incredible the flares were (the Anamorph-X’s natural flares are quite muted). The video went up on April 1st and I got no negative feedback on the image quality of my test footage. Lots of negative feedback on the fact that it was a prank, though.

Below is a photo of the handheld setup I used. The whole setup goes on 15mm rails because the adapter is pretty heavy (900g), but it has a 1/4″ hole in the bottom that makes it super easy to mount to the rails and keep it aligned. The Anamorph-X has a small tolerance for racking focus just with the taking lens, so I was constantly (literally all the time) adjusting focus on both the adapter and the Rokinon in order to get sharp shots.

The Letus Anamorph-X attaches to the taking lens through a built-in 114mm clamp. They also offer 77mm and 82mm adapter rings for lenses with smaller fronts.

The downsides, but really?

The process of focusing both lenses to achieve sharpness is called double focus and it is one of the biggest challenges when it comes to anamorphics. This leads into my issues with this lens. Double focus is one of them, but it’s not as hard as other adapters I’ve played with. For me the real challenge was to switch focus direction, as this adapter focuses Nikon style, while everything else out there focuses in the opposite direction. So while operating the Rokinon I had to focus one way for the taking lens and the opposite way for the Letus. Talk about crossed wires.

I already mentioned I wanted stronger flares, and Letus said they can deliver different levels of coating. If I was buying one of these for myself (and I’m seriously considering), I’d ask for a flarier lens. This is a personal preference though; there are lots of shooters out there that prefer a clean look over something that looks straight out of Star Trek.

The fact that I can call up Letus and ask for a modification or give them feedback and suggestions that could be incorporated in a future version of this lens is where I believe lies the utmost advantage of this adapter. Most anamorphic adapters have been kicking around for 40+ years. There are very few companies making them these days, which means that if you don’t like something in the look coming out of an old lens, there’s nothing you can do about it except choose a different lens that will look completely different.

In this case you can send Letus your feedback and make the adapter better – just like they did internally from the first version to the PRO -, dialing in small changes instead of completely different looks. For example, my biggest suggestion would be flipping focus to the proper direction, and making that huge mattebox optional to make the prices more competitive.

The current version of the Anamorph-X is pretty awesome to begin with – as you can see from all the footage I shot with it and the effort I put into making the reviews as well as writing this article. I’m still surprised with how little info and video others put out there about it. What did you think of the footage and its features?


Hypergonar 16 ST

October 21, 2018

I found this Hypergonar in the first used camera store I got inside, in Japan. It’s a French projection lens by the father of anamorphics! Use the code “Tito” for 15% off on the Phantom LUTs.


All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

Tito Ferradans here today with a story from Japan. I spent all of April in Japan – which is also why I stopped posting around that time – working with a friend in a very cool project that involved tons of vintage lenses and exotic optics.

One day we went out to hunt for cheap glass and my friend was telling me how he’s always been on the lookout for anamorphics on his usual vintage shops, but never found anything, I’m telling him how I had a similar experience back in Brazil. We walk into the first store, Lemon Camera, in Ginza. I glance into the shelves and go like:

“Hey, dude. That’s anamorphic. Right here.” And I point to this Hypergonar. It wasn’t super cheap (Lemon Camera is pricy!), but still much cheaper than eBay, so he gets it right away. That’s how I got the chance to review this scope.

. Focus was a bit stiff on this one, so if I didn’t have JSD’s FVD I’d be in a sea of trouble. My biggest challenge shooting with this rig was holding it steady because of the overall length and weight. Image quality is ok when stopped down, still showing a fair amount of blooming – this is us at Miyajima, aka Deer Island. We thought it was a good idea to climb this huge hill (Mt Misen), and we almost missed the boat back! The Hypergonar is quite soft when shooting wide open giving it all a somewhat dreamy look, and the flares are pretty trippy. I think I like this footage mostly because of colors than because of the image quality. Oh, and this was using the XYZ LUT, from Joel Famularo. You can find a link in the description to get them. Use the code “Tito” for a 15% discount.

This is only one of the many variants of Hypergonars out there. They were made in France by the almighty Henri Chrétien, the father of anamorphic lenses. It’s definitely a projection lens. The metal walls are super thick, adding a ton of weight to the setup. The lens weighs around 680g! Focus comes down to 1.5m and it’s suuuper double focus.

It doesn’t have back or front threads, which means you’re gonna need clamps to mount it and align. The weight of it throws stress on the taking lens, so use lens support. I mentioned I had a FVD for single focusing and in order to connect that, I had to take out the front of the barrel of the Hypergonar using a tiny screwdriver. This also locked focus.

Going prices on eBay are all over the place, from 400 to 650 bucks. I feel anything in that range is still too much for what this lens does and the hassle you’ll go through to shoot with it.

Image quality is never ok wide open, even using proper diopters, which might be a case of alignment, but it sharpens up a lot stopped down. Edges are shady, and if you can shoot 4:3 and avoid edge areas entirely, go for it.

Flares are maybe the only remarkable thing about this lens. They show this “infinity” symbol that I’ve seen very few times and that could be a cool thing to make your footage stand out. But then if you’re relying in only flares to stand out, I think you’re in trouble. Cool, still.

Vignetting is not terrible. Unusable at 50mm unless you crop some more in post, but almost clears full frame at 85mm, which means you can clear 2.4:1 around 65mm. 135 is completely clear. I’m yet to see something vignette at 135mm.

Overall this is not a bad scope, but it’s faaaar from being in my list of favorites – or even my list of second runners. This lens shows a lot of the traits I dislike about projection lenses: It’s unnecessarily heavy and long, offers no help to mounting and using filters, and delivers just acceptable images.

At least I had the chance to play with it and you get to learn from that experience. You’re welcome. Hahaha. I’ll take a like as payment. Thank you so much. On that note, if you like getting free information about anamorphics and dodging the process of buying lenses you’re not gonna love, you should subscribe to the channel and check out the collection of videos that came before this one. I’m Tito Ferradans, and I’ll see you next week.


Unbranded 1.33x Anamorphic Adapter

October 14, 2018

The Century 1.33x was one of the first lenses I tested in this channel. How does this unbranded version compare to the Century? Someone should start making these again for cheap.


All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

Hello ladies and gentlemen. Tito Ferradans here for a quick episode about an unbranded 1.33x adapter. This episode is brought to you by JSD, who shipped me this lens from Japan so I could try it out before parting with it. Here’s some footage:

In almost every aspect this adapter is a clone of the Century Optics 1.33x. They were made in multiple flavors: Soligor, Optex, Century and – apparently – unbranded too. It performs nicely when stopped down but again we start to see bokeh artifacting and loss of resolution on faster apertures if I’m not being smart with my diopters.

1.33x stretch is a great combo for 16:9 sensors, stretching out to perfect Cinemascope without requiring any crop. This one is super light, 170g, just under half a pound and very compact when compared to most adapters.

This is a fixed focus adapter, which means that you’ll rely heavily on diopters for getting anything closer than 4m (12ft) sharp. That whole “focus through” concept is nonsense. Whenever you’re focusing with just the taking lens, you’re compromising your image quality. Get yourself a front clamp – or make one! – and use a cheap diopter kit with this one.

Mounting is easy, this lens has 52mm rear threads and it came with a 37-52mm adapter which I can only think it was meant to be used with handycams. While the Century has a screw-lock mechanism for alignment, this one relies on a rubber band type of thing, which was surprisingly reliable and fast to adjust on the go.

These used to sell for $300 when I got into anamorphics, then jumped to $500 and nowadays they go for $750. I think that’s a bit much, and their maximum value should be around $550 – ideally less. These unbranded versions are harder to come by on eBay but that’s no excuse for hiking the prices.

When it comes to image quality, the center is pretty decent at any aperture as long as you use proper diopters, but the edges are blown to garbage the wider you go, and recover a bit when stopped down. As most fixed focus adapters, this one also dislikes longer lenses and you can see the quality drop from 50 to 85mm and more on the 135mm.

Flares are a nice mix of blue and purple. Personally this is one of my favorite tones for flares. If SLR Magic was able to reproduce this instead of radioactive blue, they’d have a much better market acceptance.

The only aspect that this adapter outperformed the Century was vignetting – and I can’t quite point out why without having both to compare. While the Century can only clear down to 35mm on full frame, this one can go almost to 28mm, with very slight dark corners.

The ability to go wider with the taking lenses makes anamorphic distortion more pronounced in a good way – not the crazy warping you see on the Kowas or the Aivascope. I like this adapter, it’s super easy to use, small and light, and it brings out most of the anamorphic look. Pair it with an anamorfake and you’re set for bokeh, flares and distortion – the Pentacon 29, Mir 1B or Contax 35mm are all excellent candidates.

AFTER you subscribe and like this video, I’d love to hear your opinion about 1.33x adapters combined with anamorfakes for boosting up the look? What’s more important in a rig, size or stretch? On that reflecting note I’m ending this episode. I’m Tito Ferradans and I’ll see you next week.


Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x

October 7, 2018

The Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x holds celebrity status among anamorphic adapters. It’s time to compare it to the very similar Moller 32/1.5x and see if the craze is justified.


All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

Tito Ferradans here for a review that’s two in one. Earlier back this year Evan Burns was kind enough to let me have BOTH of his Moller lenses for a little bit while he didn’t need them. The fun part is that one was a Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x and the other one was just Moller 32/1.5x. The footage that comes is from the Bolex Moller, but I shot technical comparisons with both lenses so you could see the differences.

WOW, this lens is sharp. As soon as I mounted it and went out to test I knew they were worth their high price. I used a Rectilux HCDNA to make the system single focus and due to the smaller size of the Bolex (especially when compared to 2x projection lenses), I almost couldn’t lock it to the HCDNA using the original screws, and benefited from reduced vignetting when compared to bigger scopes. I was able to easily run and gun and nail some pretty intense shots due to focus being so clear. By the way, do you also know anyone that bikes in the snow? Bokeh looks amazing and oval, which was a surprise due to the lesser 1.5x stretch factor and the flares are gorgeous. Aaah, can I keep one of these?

In years playing with anamorphics I had never actually seen one of these lenses. They’re fairly large, or at least larger than I expected, but not bulky. It’s one of those lenses that have the perfect size and weight for what they do. For reference, they weigh 370g each.

Focus throw is long, just like the Iscorama, almost full circle, and it comes down to just under 1m (3ft). Oddly enough, these ones extended when focused to infinity and became shorter at minimum focus. I’ve heard different stories from other users, so if you have any insight, please leave a comment below!

The back has non-standard threads, which require clamps. Redstan makes some fine clamps for the Bolex and Rapido also offers some great options. From there you can find your alignment through the flares. The front has regular 62mm threads, which saves you some money buying another clamp. Just step rings will do.

If you’re already in love and desperate for one of these, I have bad news. They only show up eventually and their prices are pretty high. The latest I saw was between $2000 and 2500, not too far behind of an Iscorama – even closer when you add the cost of a single focus solution.

Image quality of the Bolex is insane. This adapter goes hand in hand with any taking lens you pick, never hindering its resolving power, no matter the aperture. Corners are also quite good, as long as you don’t push it to vignetting. When we compare the Bolex to the Moller it’s easy to see the Bolex has better coatings and contrast, but IQ doesn’t change much between them.

Flares are purple/blue on the Bolex, which is quite sci-fi and modern, but not too much. This is like the exact opposite of the Iscorama in terms of color tone, but the same when it comes too mood. Due to different coatings, the Moller has neutral flares, which take on the color of your light source. Not a common trait these days and it’s directly related to the lesser contrast we saw in the previous test.

When it comes to vignetting, the two are the same, clearing dark corners just over 50mm on full frame. The Rectilux HCDNA makes vignetting a bit more intense, requiring slightly longer lenses to clear the entire shot. It’s not too bad, and you’ll be fine if you’re going for a 2.4:1 crop instead of the whole 2.66:1.

These are two of the best adapters I’ve ever played with, the Bolex taking the superior edge here over the Moller. I can understand why their users love them so much and the cult that exists around them. I wouldn’t think much if given the choice between a Kowa B&H and a Bolex Moller.

What would your pick be? After seeing this footage, are you still convinced that anamorphic has to be 2x stretch? Are we gonna see an even higher increase in the prices for the Mollers now? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below. Subscribe to the channel to be notified of new videos – like the comparison between Bolex and Iscorama that I have coming up – and like this video if it was useful to you! I’m Tito Ferradans and I’ll see you next week.