Monthly Archives:

January 2018

Anamorphic

Anamorphic Chop Shop – Anamorfake Tair 11A 135mm f/2.8

January 28, 2018

This episode wraps the long end of the Russian Amber mods, with the bokehlicious Tair 11A 135mm f/2.8 on a super simple and effective mod.

USEFUL LINKS:

All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

I had this mod planned for almost a year and it was just now that I got around to doing it. Trust me, if I knew it was this easy I would’ve done it a long time ago. The goal here is to wrap the telephoto end of our Amber mods. The choice is the Tair 11A, a gorgeous 135mm f/2.8 with 20 aperture blades and smooth (preset) aperture ring. I went much lighter with the modding on this one because not much was needed to drastically affect the footage.

I’ll start by saying I love long lenses. My favorite focal lengths are all up of 85mm and the Tair 11A has a special place because of its sharp results even wide open and for being an awesome Soviet lens – which brings a ton of character into the picture.

For this mod we’re gonna need the following: Tair 11A, oval aperture discs, orange sharpie, fishing line, double sided tape, sandpaper,rotating M42 adapter and 3d-printed focus gears. You can get the files for both the focus gears and aperture discs in the video description.

Notice we don’t need a lens wrench for this mod!

The first step is to sand down your aperture disc. After it’s thinned down, paint it with your favorite color. I’m going with orange. Then, add the fishing line, double sided tape on each end and paint that if you want to tint your flares as well. If you don’t want any sort of tint, just paint it black!

The next step is to pull up the lens’ hood and get a good grip on the body underneath it. Now unscrew it out. This will give you access to the aperture mechanism. Yes, it was that easy.

Drop in the aperture disc and close the lens back up.

With your 3d-printed focus gear at hand, sand the inside part until it fits just right around the focus ring of the Tair.

The last step is to add the M42 to EF adapter and adjust it so the oval is facing the right direction!

There you go, a quick and simple mod that works really well with this longer lens. If the tint is getting too strong, you can always close the iris to tone it down.

Does this mod sound friendlier than the ones before it? Let me know in the comments below! The main reason I enjoy doing these is I get to understand the inner workings of the lenses and feel more comfortable doing my experiments! I have more mods coming up, so subscribe to the channel to be notified when they are here! I’m Tito Ferradans and I’ll see you next week!

Anamorphic

Anamorphic on a Budget – Vistascope 16mm

January 21, 2018

The Vistascope or Delrama 16 is the 8mm’s bigger brother. Same principles, bigger glass. It allows for better results with cameras that have bigger sensors.

USEFUL LINKS:

All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

I’m Tito Ferradans and this week we’ll be going over the big version of the Vistascope. I already reviewed the 8mm version, so I’ll refer back to that video now and then. The size of this adapter is much friendlier than the baby one, allowing for better shots and not-so-restrictive focal lengths. Diopters are still a must and the prism design is responsible for killing off oval bokeh and most of anamorphic flares. You still get a 1.5x squeeze, which is the dream stretch factor for many users and this STRONG dreamy feel when the lens isn’t so stopped down.

OVERVIEW
Delrama is another popular name for this very same adapter, and they were all made by the Dutch company Old Delft. As the 8mm version, this is a square lens based on mirrors and prisms to achieve the squeeze. This is a focus through adapter, which means its focus is fixed between 4m – 12ft – and infinity. That being said, focusing is done on the taking lens, and without diopters, this adapter is dead on the water regarding close focus.

Still a light build, the Vistascope 16mm weighs 275g, which goes super safe on a Rapido clamp. For the front, I made a bigger version of my 3d-printed clamp combined with a 77mm blank filter. You can find the download link in the description below.

PRICE and AVAILABILITY
The Vistascope 16mm is quite hard to find in good condition because of the age of the mirror and any misuse it might have faced before you. You can get it for an OK price though, from around $180-330 off eBay.

RESOLUTION
As you’ve seen in my fine-tuning video, my adapter required some adjustments before getting sharp focus. These were the charts BEFORE the adjustment, and now AFTER it. The lens performs well throughout, without much quality variation between center and corners.

FLARES
There are some streak flares, but they’re not attached to the light source. They come up according to reflections. Plus there’s a lot of glow, glare and haze. Artifacts galore!

SENSOR COVERAGE
I wasn’t able to clear 2.4:1 on full frame on either 40mm and 50mm. At 85mm I was able to barely clear the 2.66:1 frame, so I’d stick to S35 sensors for more taking lens options.

I like the crazy artifacts, reflections, and unusual flares introduced by this lens, but the fact that I can only use it under strong lighting conditions make it tough to work with. Smaller sensors will be able to achieve better results, just like its 8mm sister. The advantages of this lens is that it creates a unique look, even among anamorphics. It gives the footage a very dreamy texture – not only because it’s soft! hahaha! It’s like it comes with a strong built-in diffusion filter. I would love to shoot some artsy, flashbacky sequences with it – pretty much like the opening tests. Being light makes it easy to lug around and being square turns alignment into a walk in the park.

If you liked this video, be sure to hit the “like” button below, and share it with your friends. Before you go, don’t forget to subscribe, as there’s always more anamorphics to talk about. If you want, you can support this channel on Patreon and help making it better, with more lenses and more videos – besides all the cool rewards. I’m Tito Ferradans and I’ll see you next week.

Anamorphic

Anamorphic on a Budget – SLR Magic Anamorphot 1.33x-40 Compact

January 14, 2018

Is third time the charm for SLR Magic making 1.33x adapters? The Compact aims to shrink your setup size and time even more, with a decently low price as well!

USEFUL LINKS:

All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

I think I did SLR Magic wrong when I used the Russian set as taking lenses for the previous tests. I didn’t have some of the Contax Zeiss back then, but now that I do, either the Compact Anamorphot is much better than its predecessors or the taking lenses affected the previous ones a great deal. On this one, for day time I had no issues focusing with any of the tested focal lengths and I was able to quickly find sharpness fiddling with the normal-near ring as well as the taking lens’ focus ring. At low light I still got some diamond shapes here and there, but when I found focus, the image sharpened up alright.

OVERVIEW
The SLR Magic Anamorphot 1.33x-40 Compact – quite a long name, right? – is SLR Magic’s THIRD take on a 1.33x adapter, announced at this year’s NAB, back in April. This is the smallest and lightest one yet, at 244g.

It features 52mm threads at the back to attach to various taking lenses and 62mm threads at the front, for smaller (and cheaper!) diopters.

Alignment is set just like the previous version, by reverse rotating the ring on the rear threads until it locks against the taking lens. It’s very simple and intuitive and I think it’s something that other adapters could use as a reference.

Its design is reminiscent of the Century Optics adapter, with a small body and square optics and focusing done mostly by the taking lens. The difference is while the Century has fixed focus between 4m and infinity, struggling for closer focus, the Compact has the Near/Normal dial which allows you to fine tune your focus range (just like the big Century WS-13). This improves image quality considerably when aiming at objects at close range down to 0.8m. If you wanna get closer than that, I would recommend diopters anyway.

The square glass and lesser squeeze translate into subtle oval bokeh which needs to be pushed through the use of diopters.

PRICE and AVAILABILITY
When it comes to buying these babies, eBay seems to be the worst place to go, The Compact is readily available at B&H for North America and UK Digital for Europe. Something I fail to understand is how pricy this lens gets when sold on Europe. On North America it retails for $500 but for our old-world counterparts, it goes for $750.

RESOLUTION
The center of the image is pretty decent at any aperture, but the falloff to the edge blurriness is directly related to how stopped down your taking lens is. Wide open, things go blurry rather fast. The Compact is also not a huge fan of longer lenses, and I would cap my range at 85mm.

FLARES
Did you actually expect NOT to see insanely saturated flares? On some of my lenses, it created this cross-type flare, with very strange edges, and in some others, normal, overly blue streaks. I posted a tutorial on how to tweak the hue on these flares a while ago. Check it out!

SENSOR COVERAGE
For sensor coverage, the size of the front optics and how recessed they are on the taking lens matters very much. I got unacceptable results while using a 35mm but the frame cleaned up nicely at 40mm with Canon’s pancake. I wanted to test a 50mm just to be sure vignette wouldn’t come back due to recessed optics.

OVERALL NOTES

If you just got here, I recommend checking back on the older SLR Magic episodes but before you go do that, don’t forget to subscribe and hit the like button. If you have any questions, shoot them in the comments below. I’m Tito Ferradans and I’ll see you next week.