Anamorphic Chop Shop – Anamorfake Mir 10A 28mm f/3.5

March 4, 2018

Now we’re moving towards the wider side of the USSR Anamorfake set. The Mir 10A is a competitor for the Pentacon 29mm mod. If you want your set exclusively made of USSR glass, the 10A is the way to go.


All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.

You can support this project on Patreon. Make your contribution and help the Anamorphic Cookbook!

Tito Ferradans here for another quick anamorfake tutorial. It seems I have started with the lenses with the largest amount of steps, and now I’m on the other end of the spectrum. Today we’re gonna expand on the wide-angle side, adding a 28mm to the set (and allowing you to get rid of that Pentacon 29mm which isn’t really Soviet). I’m also going lighter on the mod steps as I learned from trial and error that not all lenses benefit from a lot of internal painting.

For this Mir 10A, I’m only adding a tinted oval aperture and a flare line. In order to do that we’re gonna need these items: Mir 10A, a lens wrench and a small screwdriver, oval aperture disc, sandpaper, scissors, orange sharpie, fishing line, double-sided tape, 3d-printed focus gears and rotating M42 adapter. You can get the files for the focus gear and aperture disc on the description below, or directly from me on eBay.

Start by focusing the lens to infinity in order to push the rear of it as far out of the housing as possible. Now use the lens wrench to remove the inner locking ring. This will give you access to a glass element with a metal frame around it. Welcome to the annoying part of this mod. Using the lens wrench, patiently fish it out of the housing, carefully noting which side faces outwards.

Now we got to ANOTHER of these elements. The key to get them out is to keep both sides even. If they start to angle to each other, the element will get stuck. After that is taken care of, also remember which side faces outwards. I like to keep the outwards-facing side facing up on the table.

We have finally reached the aperture mechanism. I’m being creative here and using the same aperture disc I made for the Mir 1B, since the physical maximum aperture size is about the same. Sand it super thin, as there’s not much space in there, paint as desired – here’s a new trick: instead of painting the whole thing in one color, I’m adding a lot of black around the edges and the orange comes in closer to the oval. This will control highlight blooming. Add the flare line by using double tape. Slot it in the lens and make sure the oval is right in the middle. This will turn the original f/3.5 into f/5.

Carefully drop the lens elements back in, one by one, and lock them in place with the ring. Slide the focus gear on and align the ovals and flares by using the rotating M42 adapter, and you’re done.

One of my favorite aspects of this mod is how the flare line turns out, super balanced with the footage and merging with the Mir 10A’s lovely natural flares. The tint on the aperture gives a glow to strong light sources, which I think is very natural and organic. Whenever I have a strong light source in my footage, I like adding some glow around it, as this is how my eyes see it. The tint does it by default, no need for post. The ovals are very subtle in general, just adding a subtle hint of anamorphic but they really pop when you use the lens for a wide close up.

If you want to grab a Mir 10A right away for modding, there’s a link on the video description, as well as links for everything else I used. Leave a comment below if you have any questions about this process, and please hit the like button so I feel loved and motivated to make more videos. Next week I’ll wrap this project with the Mir 20M, at 20mm, so subscribe to the channel to be notified when the video is up! I’m Tito Ferradans and I’ll see you next week!