DIY 3D-Printed Anamorphic Front Clamp

March 25, 2018

Wanna be cheap with me and make your own front clamps? Here’s a detailed recipe. Thank you, Lucas Pfaff!


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Tito Ferradans here for another collaboration with Lucas Pfaff – yes, the same guy of the Anamorphic Mumps Corrector. Today we’re making a 3D printed front clamp for any given anamorphic – almost any, actually – by combining a 3d printed part and a step ring for filter threads.

You’re gonna need a step ring slightly bigger than your anamorphic front glass, a 3d printer, your anamorphic and a caliper.

We’re gonna start by measuring the front diameter of the anamorphic. For this Dyaliscope, I got 77.9mm. Now I’m gonna get my step ring, in this case a 72-77mm fits nicely over the front element. The outer diameter of the ring is 79.6mm, and its height is 5.5mm.

Now I’m going in Autodesk’s Fusion 360 and making a clamp by using all these numbers. Fusion is pretty easy to use. You can also use any 3d modeling software you feel more comfortable with. I’ll start with a sketch that uses most values I got from the dyaliscope and ring. I’ll create a circle with the overall outer diameter of the clamp – 88mm in this case.

Inside this circle, I’m creating another one, with the outer diameter of the step ring, 79.6mm, and then a third circle inside, which uses the diameter of the dyaliscope (77.9). Lastly, I’m adding a fourth circle with the diameter of the smaller threads of the step ring.

From here I’ll start extruding the front of the clamp, with a partial height for the step ring (4.5mm), and then I’ll select the circle that has the dyaliscope diameter and extrude it in the opposite direction for 13.5mm which is enough overlap over the lens.

As an option you can chop out the rear threads of the filter and make it more compact, which will reduce the odds of vignetting. If you don’t have the tools to do so, just take into account the ring’s rear threads when designing the clamp – which is what I’m doing now: I’m using the circle with the step-ring’s small diameter to create a little ledge which will house those threads safely and prevent the anamorphic from pushing the ring out.

Export this as an STL file and print it. Fit the step ring in, it should be tight. If it’s too tight, I’d say warm up the print with a blow drier. Same goes for the anamorphic. It should fit in super snuggly and be hard to move. This is what makes it safe.

Easy and cheap enough, right? Do you feel comfortable trusting your diopters with something you made yourself or would you be more at ease using a traditional clamp like the ones from Redstan and Rapido? You can always drill a hole and add a nylon screw to this like Lucas shows here!

If you liked this tutorial and this is gonna save you money, please like the video and subscribe to the channel! I’m always coming up with new tricks and solutions to make anamorphic shooting more accessible. If you got any questions, shoot them in the comments below! And the file for this particular clamp can also be downloaded in the description! See you next week! Tito Ferradans out.