Here’s an upgraded version for the anamorphic mumps correction tutorial I posted last year. Featuring a free AE preset that will let you apply the adjustment directly to video! I made this episode in collaboration with Lucas Pfaff.
Finally the review for the Rectilux! This extra piece of gear is incredible, I’m very impressed with the results and how easy it is to work with this lens. It requires you having you anamorphic adapter already, turning a double focus lens into single focus, through a variable diopter.
All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.
OVERVIEW
What’s up, folks? Tito Ferradans here and in this episode we’ll talk about the much anticipated Rectilux. First off, I’m planning more tests with this lens than the ones I’m showing here, because it’s just blowing me away.
As of 2015, the Rectilux is a new product in the anamorphic market, entirely designed and developed by Mr. John Barlow. It is based on a variable strength diopter which, in a simplified way, translates into transforming any lens into a single focus system.
The Rectilux currently comes in two versions, the 3FF-W for bigger anamorphics (Kowa, Cinelux, etc) and the 3FF-S for the most compact adapters (Isco Animex, Sankor 16-C, Moller 32 and so on). If you wanna see a full compatibility list, check the link. The lens has a full metal body and feels pretty much like a tank. It certainly weights like one, at 425g by itself, 700g with the Kowa fitted inside. Focus is so smooth it took me a couple hours to get used, but now I think it’s great, I don’t have to struggle to pull focus just using my fingers, since it’s so light.
Front thread is 95mm and the Rectigrip, the rear threads, is 67mm, be sure to get all the proper step rings!
How does it work? First you need your taking lens and your anamorphic adapter. Check compatibility to get the right version. The anamorphic is then focused on infinity and fitted inside the Rectilux. Watch my assembly video for a detailed step-by-step of this process for the Kowa B&H. Then, focus the taking lens to infinity as well and screw it onto the Rectigrip.
The name Rectilux comes from a mix of latin words for straight and light, which means the light goes straight through the optics not being subject to any changes, like loss of sharpness, blooming, cutting flares, chromatic aberration, and all that. No extra optical artifacts are added by the Rectilux. This means testing it with my Kowa B&H will look exactly like shooting without the Rectilux, in terms of image quality. Makes sense?
An exception for this test is I’m using Zeiss taking lenses, since my russian set would cap the Rectilux’s performance. Later on I’ll shoot more tests with the Canon’s 50 and 85mm f/1.2 and the 135mm f/2, for extreme aperture evaluation.
Now, back to regular talk, focus ranges from 0.5m to Infinity, stretch depends on the anamorphic you’re using. All the compatible lenses have a 2x stretch, except the Bolex Möller, which is 1.5x and alignment is set using the Rectigrip. It employs a different design from the traditional “three-nylon-screws”, with a single metal bolt. DO NOT use both screws, as it will reduce the grip’s power, and triple check if the whole thing is properly secured. I almost dropped my lens by hurrying into a shot without tightening it properly.
PRICE and AVAILABILITY
For this first batch, a bunch of us placed our orders so the lenses could be made. Now John has a few left in stock and there’s no waiting time except shipping. Price is 695 pounds for the 3FF-W and 549 pounds for the smaller 3FF-S. That translates roughly into US$1100 and US$850, a little higher than the FM Module. For more information on how to place an order, check Rectilux’s website.
RESOLUTION
In theory, this test is actually just showing the performance of the Kowa B&H paired with the Zeiss, since the Rectilux isn’t degrading the quality at all. As usual, you can download the original files.
With focus ranging from half a meter to infinity, the 95mm front thread doesn’t worry me so much because I’d need a very specific and unusual shot to be closer than 0.5m from my subject. This test also made me realize that f/1.4 can be sharp enough to be usable!
Contax Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 CENTER Contax Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 CORNERS
Contax Zeiss 85mm f/1.4 CENTER Contax Zeiss 85mm f/1.4 CORNERS
Nikon 135mm f/2.8 CENTER Nikon 135mm f/2.8 CORNERS
FLARES
Well, it’s the Kowa’s flares, nothing special there. The light I used isn’t the best, it’s a tiny LED. If I shot the same thing without the Rectilux, there flares are still the same.
SENSOR COVERAGE
Now we got to an interesting point. Using 2x stretch lenses gets you a 3.56:1 aspect ratio. Almost none of us use this kind of image, so I’ve cropped everything to 2.4:1, Cinemascope. In my tests, using the Helios 44, at 58mm, still gives me some black edges. John told me the El-Nikkor 63mm f/2.8 is the widest available taking lens out there, shooting 1600×1200 with MagicLantern on the 5D3. Unfortunately my copy hasn’t arrived yet so I can’t show it, but I have no reason to not trust John’s words about it.
WORLD TEST
I had to do this kind of in a hurry because the Zeiss were rented for half a day I had to return them the following morning. I thank Gearhouse Camera Rentals, here at Vancouver, for the good deal they offered me in favor of this project. Here’s the 2.4:1 version of the shots, but you can also check this other video for the full 3.56:1 aspect ratio of them. For me, the hardest thing shooting these images was using my camera rig, which was too small and uncomfortable. The practicality of using the Rectilux also impressed me, being able to quickly switch between different taking lenses and not worry about double focus, or diopters at all.
This video has already overextended itself and it’s time to end it! The Rectilux is an amazing piece of gear and a welcome addition to my arsenal. It performs as expected and breathes life back into my Kowa B&H, making me consider buying other double focus lenses to pair it with. True anamorphic, here we go. Ferradans signing out!
The following other shots were made using the 1600×1200 resolution, 4:3, and then stretched to 2.66:1. As a recurring character in this series, Matt Leaf was handling the camera at this part, and showing me different places around Metro Vancouver.
This is a quick, though detailed, tutorial of how to fit your Kowa Bell & Howell inside the Rectilux 3FF-W. I’m following all the steps from the Owner’s Manual. Check my channel for more information about the Rectilux and anamorphic adapters in general!
All the RED links on this post are part of eBay’s Partner Network, so if you purchase anything through them, you’re helping me to keep this project going.
Hey, I’m Tito Ferradans and this is Anamorphic Chop Shop. This is the second video based on the Rectilux. This time I’ll be showing you the assembly process for the Kowa Bell & Howell.
I’ll be following the instructions exactly as described in the Owner’s Manual. You can download it to check the instructions for all the lenses at my blog. It’s good to highlight that each lens has specific instructions in order to fit inside the Rectilux. Some are simpler, some have more steps than the Kowa B&H I’m showing here. According to the manual, the Kowa is the widest scope available, cool!
First step, set the Kowa to infinity and remove these three tiny screws. Then, turn the stop ring anti-clockwise to remove it. Store it safely along with the screws.
Second step, attach the Rectilux’s front coupling ring, the wrench slots – these little cuts here – facing the rear, to where the Kowa’s stop ring used to be. The manual warns me to wear a glove, since fresh machined threads can be sharp, but my hands are already pretty rough, besides, if there’s a blood splatter in this video, I’ll get tons of views as “idiot cuts his hand and bleeds over expensive optics”. Be careful not to cross the threads, like when it becomes super hard to keep the ring rotating, but you can see it’s not even halfway through, or filters that get stuck, that kind of thing. The tightness of this ring will affect the torque you’ll need to focus the Rectilux, adjust it as you want. I’ll go for a very smooth operation and stop as soon as it offers some resistance.
In order to have the best performance inside the Rectilux, I have to remove the distance scale on the Kowa. The manual tells me to remove these screws here and here, also saying that this doesn’t affect the lens’ working mechanism. It also hints me to copy the focus scale onto a piece of vinyl tape and permanent marker, where the Kowa name is. I’m cheap, as you should know by now, and have neither vinyl tape nor permanent markers. I’ll use regular tape and a ballpoint pen. Don’t judge me.
Completing these steps will get you a Rectilux Ready Kowa, or St. Kowa. Hell yeah. Moving on…
Now, on the Rectilux itself, check if the optics are properly secured. If not, fix it using a lens wrench, but don’t overtighten it. Then, fill ONE – only ONE, not two, not three – of these little holes here on the finger thingies. This will leave you with TWO empty holes around the ring, that’s just how it’s meant to be. One thing you might notice is the Rectilux doesn’t have focus marks. John proposed a “clampable” ring, if enough people are interested. I surely am!
Now, mount the focus guard. It’s pretty easy to figure out the correct M3 screws. Just insert them enough to hold the focus guard in place. There’s still some action to go down here.
The next step is to finally insert the Kowa inside. The outside 75mm threads will match the inner thread behind the front optics and that will be perfectly neat. Careful, again, not to cross the threads. It takes about ten full turns before the coupling rings are fully threaded. So, that’s working just fine. If it becomes stiff before that, you probably crossed threads. Remove and restart, never force it.
This is the hardest step in the whole process. I have to fit this ring around the Kowa, while matching the holes for the screws around the focus guard. Trust me, it can take about the same time it took me so far just to get this little part working. Phew, that was fun! Now the screws are holding the Kowa in place, preventing it from rotating inside the Rectilux and messing your alignment.
Finally, slap in the Rectigrip and use just one of the small M3 screws to secure it in place. You’ll be tempted to use two. Do not. It makes the grip weaker since it can rotate along the common axis shared by both screws. Be careful and always triple check if the grip is firm enough. The screw is tiny and it can fool you sometimes.
And that’s it! Now you just attach this to your taking lens, align it by loosening the screw in the Rectigrip, tighten it back and then go out to shoot, focusing on the Rectilux! Have fun! Subscribe for more anamorphic content and check my blog to read the full Anamorphic on a Budget guide! I’m out.
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